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For those of you who don’t know, this year marks the tenth anniversary of my first landing in China – August 27, 1999. That day, when I stumbled into Beijing’s old international airport, never did I realize it would change my life entirely. That I would spend the majority of the next ten years living and working in this country…that I would find my husband here, and get married here…that I would find myself so entirely captivated by a country so drastically different from what I’ve known.

Truly, though, it’s the people in China that I love the most. I’ve discovered friendships in this country so deep, and precious, and strong. These friendships sustain and nourish me, and help me to rise above all of the difficulties one encounters in this country.

Besides my husband, there is one friend in China who stands out from all the rest – and this year marks 10 years of friendship together. That friend is Peter Pi, who I had the privilege of spending five days with in Beijing.

Peter and I met at Henan College of Education in Zhengzhou, where I began teaching English in 1999. He and I first saw one another on the roof of the school, watching fireworks go off in celebration of National Day. I never spoke to him then because I’d lost my voice and had been told by the doctors not to speak, but still I saw him. It wasn’t until several weeks later in October, when I was sitting on the stairs just outside of the Foreign Teachers dormitory that he approached me to talk. By then, I’d been accustomed to being approached by English students with the same litany of questions: where are you from? What do you think of China (and Zhengzhou)? How much money do you make? And so on. I don’t necessarily find such questions disagreeable – indeed, the exercise is helpful for students to improve their oral English. However, sometimes the approach leaves you a bit dry. If you have enough of these interactions – which inevitably happens to anyone teaching English in China — you feel hungry for a real connection with the people.

With Peter, it was completely different. At first, when I saw him approaching, I had mentally prepared myself for the same line of questions – and I was pleasantly surprised when it wasn’t like that at all. We just had a REAL conversation which felt less like an oral English practice, and simply more about getting to know each other. There was something about him that I liked – a certain humbleness, and honesty about him. Over the years, I know the feeling has been mutual. He has often praised me over the phone because I was never overly obsessed with clothing and material goods, preferring casual and comfortable threads, as well as a simple existence.

As that year at Henan College of Education went on, I got to know Peter very well because he dated one of my students for a period of time, a girl named Erin. I noticed how Peter was a fine influence on her, encouraging her to study hard and take my oral English classes seriously (something which, sadly, few of my students, who came from wealthy families, ever did). I saw some significant improvement in her English by the end of the fall semester, which no doubt Peter had a hand in, even though the two of them broke up later.

In the Spring semester, my then boyfriend Christian, a Zhengzhou native, had left the country for England, and left me behind, so I sought solace in my friends at school, in particular Peter and his rather vivacious friend Frank G, a shorter fellow with enormous eyes and eyebrows who was well-known among the foreign teachers for his booming voice, and general enthusiasm for English (including getting up every morning to shout English phrases at the top of his lungs, a routine recommended by the adherents to the “Crazy English” method). Peter, Frank G and I (and occasionally Frank G’s future wife, Felicia) would get together at cafes and talk honestly about everything China – and more. Sometimes it was incredible to me how neither of them were afraid to explore the depths of politics, society and sometimes even taboo subjects freely with me. I learned so much about China through them. When Christian and I broke up painfully in May 2000, I had Peter, among others, to lean on.

We also loved watching movies, and I never ceased to be amazed by how Peter seemed to open to just about anything. I knew, for example, that most Chinese found homosexuality completely distasteful. Yet when I watched “Boys Don’t Cry” with Peter, he didn’t see anything wrong with two girls being in love, and, in fact, was moved by the tragedy depicted in the movie. Peter especially loved having “discussions” after the movies, such as we did with “Boys Don’t Cry”. It almost felt like Siskel and Ebert, where we’d make a round circle with whoever else was present – Frank G, Erin – and talk about the themes and issues of the movie, and give our own critiques. These discussions were so novel to me, and I expect to Peter and the others. I had seen movies my entire life, and while I’d chat about them afterwards, I’d never pondered movies so deeply until I came to Henan College of Education.

In 2001, when I returned to China to work in Hangzhou, I was determined to see Peter during a trip back to Henan province for the National Day holiday. That was when I began to understand where Peter came from, and what he was truly made of.

Peter, I discovered, is from Zhengyang county, a county located near Zhumadian in southern Henan Province. His hometown is a small place with only three major streets, which end at the fields – fields that I saw burnt by farmers after the harvest, almost like a warning sign as to the sorrows hidden within their homes. He grew up in abject poverty, sometimes going hungry because there wasn’t enough food. He likes to say he failed the college entrance exam – it isn’t that he didn’t get in anywhere, but just that he got accepted into the worst type of school possible, a two-year teacher’s college. He studied history for 2 years in Zhumadian. It was only later that he received a scholarship to study English at the Henan College of Education, a two-year education he often describes as the happiest years of his life.

Originally, Peter wanted to go back home to Zhengyang help take care of his family. But he faced many sorrows as a teacher at the middle school in Zhengyang county. His father died in late 2001, leaving his mother a widow with less support. The girl he fell in love with, a teacher at his school, was married to a man he knew, and he even attended their wedding, hiding away his broken heart.

In the years after 2001, Peter decided to change his plans, which had originally been to stay in Zhengyang as a teacher, get married and have a family while taking care of his family. It was his father’s death that made him realize he could not count on having other people there for him, and that he wanted more in life.

He set his sights on getting into graduate school in Beijing as a way out of the countryside (since it’s one of the few ways to change one’s permanent residence in China). He chose Beijing Normal University’s comparative education department, a major with relatively low competition, and was accepted in 2004. Three years later, he graduated and found employment as a civil servant in Beijing’s education bureau, providing him with a good, stable job with decent benefits.

While Peter was proud of finally living and working in Beijing, he felt lonely. Our phone conversations post-graduation inevitably turned to how difficult it was for Peter to find a girlfriend. He couldn’t even believe that, in the three years at Beijing Normal, he never had a single date! But if you understand Chinese culture, it’s easy to see why. Peter is from the countryside. He earns little in his position, has no apartment of his own – living instead in a free dormitory for teachers – and naturally has no car. Most city girls in China will only marry men with apartments and cars, and generally look down on poor fellows from the countryside. But more than that, Peter wanted a thoughtful girl…a girl who read books, who had thoughts of her own, who was caring and honest. Not so easy, in a world where girls would rather go shopping than read Sun’s Art of War or Shakespeare.

He finally met a girl in late 2008, a teacher who he admired because she was so devoted to her work and cared so much for her students. Their courtship was going along well enough, until Chinese New Year, when she learned that, if they ever got married, Peter’s mother would need to move in with them. Most Chinese girls fear the potentially rocky relationship they may have with their mother-in-law, and this girl decided she couldn’t handle it. She told him the day before meeting his mother, who spent the holiday with Peter in Beijing.

But Peter is never one to settle. He did not settle when he failed the entrance exam, nor did he settle with Zhengyang. So, he continued to contact the girl, even though they were no longer in a relationship.

So, just after I reunited with Peter, I learned some happy news: they are back together again. Will they get married? Maybe, but Peter is taking things slowly.

Still, while you can say Peter has been successful in finding a new life in Beijing, he remains troubled by the family members left behind in Zhengyang. His mother, who works a 10 RMB (~15 dollars) a day job in a breakfast cafe because she has nothing else to do with her time. His brother, who was forced to drop out of middle school because there wasn’t enough money to pay for his tuition, who now works in a store, and has learned to forget about the education he lost out of poverty. He can take care of himself, but cannot take care of his family.

I think Peter says it best himself: “Sometimes I think it is a wonder, for me, that I grow up in this family and come to Beijing. For many people, it is hard to imagine. In Beijing, Beijing Normal University, they don’t know so many people like me. Most people come from the rich family. They don’t know so many people who have the kind of experience like me.”

For Peter, things seem to be moving in the right direction. Besides getting back with his girlfriend, he now has the opportunity to go to Australia, because a principal at a school there (who met him in Beijing) has invited him for a visit and will pay for all of his travel expenses. Of course, he still has to wrangle with the visa, ever a complicated matter for any Chinese, but his work unit supports him and should be able to help him overcome the difficulties.

To this day, Peter remains one of my best friends in China. He is someone I trust with my deepest secrets, and he feels the same about me. In fact, this time he dubbed me his “sister”, a distinction that left me all smiles because he has long felt like family to me. It is hard to believe that a Chinese guy from Zhengyang county, Henan could share so much with an American girl from Cleveland, Ohio. But maybe that’s why the Chinese talk so much about destiny – or “yuanfen” 缘分 – because some things, and people, are so incredible that any rational explanation defies our imagination.

So, here’s to my incredible friend, Peter, and to 10 more years of friendship.

When I was in Beijing several weeks ago, the most shocking things I heard came from a doctor friend of mine. He is a heart surgeon at Beijing’s Fuwai Hospital, who I’ll call Dr. Wang.

I actually met Dr. Wang nine years ago when I came through Beijing and suddenly found myself without any place to stay. Dr. Wang, who was introduced to me through the friend of a husband (who also used to work at Fuwai), offered to let me stay in his dormitory room. Not only is it generally against the rules to have women stay in men’s dormitory rooms, but it’s almost certainly bad form to have a foreigner there. But Dr. Wang, as he told me earlier this month when I asked him about it, is “the kind of person who doesn’t really care about rules like that.” He’s a rare bird, indeed — direct and brutally honest, two qualities you don’t normally find in China. Plus, he’s just an all-around nice guy.

I didn’t really get to know him then, but I had thought of him every now and then over the years. Finally, when I had the chance to go to Beijing, I decided to see him, since he was still there. It had been so long and I thought it would be nice to see a familiar face.

Indeed, Dr. Wang was as friendly and hospitable as I expected. He had a car, and offered to drive me and my other Chinese friend Peter to a vegetarian restaurant for dinner. He also later offered to drop me off at the airport (which, although he was unable to do later, instead arranged for a friend to send me there).

Still, I had a sense that something was amiss in his life. I could see it in the first moment I entered his car and looked at his face. While it had only been nine years, he looked as though he’d aged twice that period of time. His eyes were tired with dark rings, his complexion a bit wan, and he’d lost a considerable amount of hair. My intuition turned out to be right, as I discovered later in our conversations — when Dr. Wang painted a dark picture of the reality in his hospital…a world where doctors get no respect and understanding, from either the patients or the leaders.

Doctors in China actually receive relatively low salaries, which is shocking because they are in charge of saving people’s lives. Though Dr. Wang had a car, he explained he did not buy it, but rather it was a wedding gift. He emphasized that it was something he could never afford on his own salary.

He said that once he operated on a little boy and, despite his best efforts, the boy still died. What did the family do? They kidnapped him. They held him at knifepoint and said “we know you tried your hardest to save our son. But you see, we paid so much money for the surgery and, now that our son is gone, we need you to negotiate with the hospital to get back our money.” Dr. Wang told them he regretted trying to save their son’s life.

When the head surgeons make a mistake in surgery, they will blame the assistant surgeons (such as Dr. Wang). While I was in Beijing, he got blamed for an operation that wasn’t supposed to be performed (which wasn’t his fault). Still, he said he is less likely to be blamed. Why? “Because I am smart and industrious. I did not make many mistakes and have always been trying to treat the patient well. All I am trying to do is save his or her life. Sometimes I finish my work but I will still handle the patient to the next shift. If I am not there, maybe he or she will die.”

Dr. Wang said that the hospital charges employees more if they drink the hospital’s water, as opposed to bringing their own water to the hospital. “What do you think of that?” he asked me. And when I said “really?” he responded with “horrible…and all of us find this really indignant.”

He keeps his ideas to himself and never shares with the leaders. In his words: “You know, I have translated a huge book. But do you know why I would like to translate such a book? During that time, I only sleep for 2 or 3 or 4 hours everyday. I do not want to cooperate with others because if I tell my plan to the head of the surgeons or the head of the hospital, he will say ‘you needn’t do that work, let me do it.’ He will rob me of the opportunity, and he will take all of the authorship.”

Additionally, saddest of all, he said the hospitals are not allowed to register any deaths. Several days before we met, despite all of his best efforts, a woman died. He then had to go talk with the family to convince them to take the body back home with them in the middle of the night, so that it would not be considered a death at the hospital.

Perhaps it is not surprising that Dr. Wang hopes to work in another country as a heart researcher. He just desperately wants respect, and wants a good life.

I think of him now especially because he is being worked to death, literally. As I write this, he is recovering from some kidney stones. Last time I tried calling him, he was in the hospital himself. 祝你早日康复 (get well soon)!

As I was looking for some late morning breakfast in the kitchen, I heard someone burst through the front door of my inlaws’ home here in the countryside. There was this handsome young man with a briefcase and — looking back on the moment — a somewhat unctuous smile. I’ve met everyone in John’s family, and here in the countryside, it’s nothing strange for someone to wander over your home unannounced. But there was something a little strange about this man.

“您找谁?” Who are you looking for? I asked him.

Before he could even open his cherry-colored lips to respond, my mother-in-law burst in and shepherded the man out the door.

When I inquired about who he was, she told me he was the 保健品 — nutritional supplements — door-to-door salesman, and I shuddered. I shuddered because I’d heard from my mother-in-law of how my father-in-law was being cheated by such a salesman. But I let it go for the moment.

Fortunately, it came up during lunch, after John and I had exhausted all of the details of our trip. It was mother-in-law who spoke of it, in her more agitated voice, and I knew something was wrong, even as I tried to make out what she was saying through the murky local language (NOTE: while people out here can speak Mandarin, the local language sounds rather different and, for the uninitiated, it can be nearly unintelligible.)

Now my mother-in-law is a smart lady, even though she is still illiterate and only went to school for several years. She knew long ago the salesman was peddling snake oil, and once again took this opportunity to berate my father-in-law. But the thing is, he would never listen to her. They actually argue quite a bit, and always have, according to John.

But when father-in-law tried defending it in front of John and I, we wouldn’t buy it, and were genuinely concerned.

He showed us this calendar hanging on the wall. The calendar had two months on each page and a large color photo of an olympic event, highlighting an Olympic athlete and some accompanying text. What I didn’t realize was, this was a freebie from the company and, of course, it was promoting the nutritional products the company sold. The company is named Zhen’ao (珍奥), and they sell Zhen’ao nucleic acid (珍奥核酸). Just the name alone made me concerned, because never in my life had I heard of anyone taking supplements filled with DNA and RNA.

“See,” said my father-in-law. “These Olympic athletes take Zhen’ao nucleic acid.

“Look here, Zhen’ao is supported by a government bureau.

“Zhen’ao is from a Nobel-prize-winning scientist.

“Zhen’ao nucleic acid has even been featured on TV programs.

Worst of all, he pointed to his head and said “See? Zhen’ao nucleic acid has made my hair turn from grey to black.”

But John and I were having none of it. We told him, they can say anything. As for the government bureau and TV, they can pay for that. And who says the Olympians are taking this stuff anyway?

We figured it was time to get to the truth of the matter, so we did a search on google, and it was worse than we ever expected.

Zhen’ao nucleic acid is a scam, and it hurts, not helps, your body. In 1981, the US legal system declared that nucleic acids were a disingenuous means of cheating consumers out of their money. In 2000, the WHO reported that people do not need nucleic acids as a health supplement. The Nobel Prize winning scientist — and others — used in Zhen’ao’s marketing all declared their names were falsely used by the company. As for China, in 2007 Zhen’ao was already on their list of dishonest nutritional supplements companies, and Zhen’ao’s direct-sales permit was revoked the same year.

John and I immediately grabbed his dad, and had him read the information we found online. Then we had a long discussion, where we explained to him never to buy anything sold door-to-door, or anything where the salesman says it’s “not available in stores” (which Zhen’ao told him — and I’m not surprised, given that their products are fake and their sales permit was long cancelled).

Unfortunately, he still has an entire box filled with Zhen’ao nucleic acid — 5,000 RMB ($735) worth. We want to see if we can return it, but I don’t have a lot of hope.

Why does such a thing happen? It’s simple — out in the countryside, people don’t have a lot of information available to them. Most do not use the internet, or know how to. There are no libraries. People don’t read the daily newspaper out here, either, because there isn’t door-to-door delivery. Cable TV at least provides some info, but it’s not enough.

Moreover, these scammers are targeting a vulnerable population: the retired elderly in China, with pensions and free time. Even in the US, the elderly get regularly scammed in cities. Just imagine how much easier it must be with a population of people so isolated from information.

Since we’re hoping to get some money back from the company, we must not act alarmed when that salesman from Zhen’ao returns. At least, we must try. And if we fail, then we must continue with our next step: warning all of my father-in-law’s friends, who also have been taking Zhen’ao nucleic acids, on his recommendation.

Yesterday on June 1, when I was in the underground tunnel crossing into Tian’anmen, I saw an interesting sign. It said “everyone has a right to breathe fresh air.” It had pictures of someone’s lungs/heart getting ruined, and it was asking people not to smoke in public places. It was shocking, really shocking – I’ve never seen anything like that in China in all my years there.

Later, when I came back to my in-laws’ home in the countryside of Hangzhou, I then saw an ad on TV decrying the harmfulness of smoking, and asking people to quit. Again, my jaws dropped.

As much as I dislike smoking, I know this is going to be hard fight. And that’s not just because I saw many Beijingers puffing away in complete disregard for the no smoking signs in restaurants. It’s because it’s such an integral part of being a man in China.

In the beginning, when China opened up, smoking was a way for men to display one’s wealth. Now, of course, cigarettes are a pretty common thing in China, so it has become a part of being a socialized Chinese man.

Chinese men have a lot of pressure, as my friend Peter Pi, in Beijing, mentioned — and few outlets for relaxation, especially out in the countryside. In the countryside, there are no libraries, no gyms, no nothing – just the bars, so all Chinese men have to do to relax themselves is smoking (and drinking, of course).

And, as all of us know, smoking happens in some of the most inopportune and surprising places in China. Offices. Elevators. Buses and trains (especially the really slow trains). Even your own home (today, when the installation guy came over to put in our DSL, when he had a moment to wait, he threw a cigarette in his mouth and was all ready to light up until I respectfully asked him not to). People here just don’t have the belief that there is anything wrong with exposing others to secondhand smoke — even their own children or pregnant wives.

But this campaign is the first sign of a changing tide, though slow moving it may be. After all, didn’t America go through its period of gratuitous smoking (remember those ads where doctors recommended cigarette brands?).

As I walked over to the Beijing apartment of my dear friend Peter, he happened to point out the Xinfang Bureau, perhaps one of the most quintessentially Chinese government inventions.

The Xinfang Bureau’s entire reason for existence is to process any written or in-person complaints about other government bureaus. At least, it’s supposed to. And it’s meant to suggest that the government is taking care of internal problems.

However, Peter said that sometimes there is a van parked outside so that, if large groups come to file a complaint, they will be directed to the van, and shipped off to somewhere else. :-/

Blocked in Beijing

I was about to update my blog today, when I discovered my website has been blocked in China!

Ouch!

I doubt it has anything to w/ my content. More likely, someone on my shared host isn’t playing nice with Beijing.

However, I’ve discovered the joys of proxies, and life is good.

That said, if you hear less from me, you’ll know why.

Foreward: I wrote this several years ago and, just recently, one of the members of my writer’s group mentioned how much she loved it. So, I’m kicking off the “new version” of Speaking of China with this classic article. Enjoy!

—–

When in China, do as the Chinese do: bicycle. Of all the transportation possibilities available, it perhaps offers you the some of the most freedom and flexibility. No more traffic jams. No more catching the latest flu or virus in crowded buses and subways. No more fighting for a taxi during rush hour. No more being a moving target on the sidewalks.

Sounds great, right?

Yet, your enthusiasm may not find a home with your foreign colleagues. Many people shun bicycling for a variety of reasons: safety, inconvenience and even fear. Talk to a few folks and you might even hear some disconcerting tales of woe. Things such as hitting an elderly Chinese man - resulting in the poor fellow’s death - and then having to fork out $10,000 for your little oversight (a true story from a former coworker of mine).

Is cycling worth the price? I can’t tell you any feel-good-miraculous-Lance-Armstrong tale. Heck, I once had a little fender bender and handed over 100 RMB for damages. But I do know one thing - I could have avoided this and many other troubles if I’d known a little more before hitting the road.

With that in mind, I bring you the official “Foreigner’s Guide to Bicycling in China”: everything you ever (and in some cases perhaps never) wanted to know about bicycling in the Middle Kingdom. Continue Speaking of China »